Refashion/Eco TLC: the Producer Responsibility Organization for France's textile sector | Knowledge Hub | Circle Economy Foundation
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Refashion/Eco TLC: the Producer Responsibility Organization for France's textile sector
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Eco TLC is the only organization accredited by the French public authorities to cover for the textile's industry's legal obligation to manage waste sustainably under France's Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) scheme. The EPR policy requires producers, distributors, and importers to responsibly manage all end of life (EoL) products marketed in the country by either creating their own approved recycling program, or contributing financially to a Producer Responsibility Organization (PRO) accredited by law to provide for them.


Eco TLC is a not-for-profit private company directed by a board of industrials and ultimately working toward 100% reuse and recycling of clothing, linen, and footwear. The company currently represents 95% of the French industry. Its current role is to address waste management and resource preservation by fostering the collection, recycling, and recovery of used textiles. Eco TLC also facilitates industry stakeholder collaboration by uniting designers, producers, distributors, local authorities, etc. around the common purpose of a circular economy transition.

Problem

As the fast fashion model has continually grown over recent decades, the increased output of EoU textiles and associated byproducts has had negative implications for both human and environmental health. The research article, "Developing a national programme for textiles and clothing recovery" by Bukhari et al. (2018), reported that fast fashion has created a demand for 80 billion new garments every year, with the U.S sending 9.5 million tonnes of textile waste to landfill, the UK sending 350,000 tonnes, and China sending 20 million tonnes. These amounts are rising. To help manage the intensifying waste streams, as well as those of other industries, policy makers and practitioners must act to close the material loop and ignite a circular economy transition that will promote maximum reuse of resources and waste prevention. The development of long-term programmes that are environmentally sound and economically viable could potentially manage the overconsumption of clothing and excessive waste generation. Such programmes must place more responsibility of collection, treatment, and recycling of EoL products on producers.


Solution

Eco TLC is the PRO operating on on behalf of over 5,000 companies in France's clothing, linen, and footwear sector. Its main role is to support prevention and management efforts for EoL products that are placed on the public market. Since its introduction, Eco TLC has changed its name to Refashion. The organization currently provides tools, services, and information to facilitate the industry's transition to a circular economy. On the Refashion website and mobile application, citizens can locate their nearest drop-off containers for used clothing. The platform also makes information on the social and environmental benefits of textiles recycling accessible via its Repair, Reuse, Recycle (#RRR) campaign, video content, training kit, and interactive kids game — all of which have been created to normalize giving our textiles extended and second lives. Resources are also provided on how to repair and maintain the clothing we have.

Outcome

According to the Refashion 2020 annual report, there were:


- 4,096 membership agreements

- 535 registered local authorities

- €34.5 million collected in eco-fees

- 156,202 tonnes of textiles sorted, 82.9% of which were in France

- 99.6% recovery from sorted tonnage

- 858 publicity campaigns

- 45,000,000 inhabitants served

- 55 R&D projects funded with €5 million since 2010

Relevant links
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EPR Policy: France's National Programme for Textiles Recovery